Looking to upgrade your rims and tires but not sure where to start? Achieving the right combination of wheel size, tire size and offset can be tricky, even for an automotive enthusiast. This guide is designed to help you achieve the correct fitment, aesthetics and functionality to meet your needs. Have questions? Need advice? Click Request-A-Quote to have one of our automotive customization experts contact you to help guide you through this process.
Click a topic from the list below to skip ahead to a particular section.
For those of you here solely for the recommendations of wheel & tires brands, we'll start with our top picks for each category first.
Click a link below to skip to our favorites for a particular cateogry:
Mid-to-Premium OptionsCars, Trucks, SUVs & UTVs
From Classic Vehicles to ATVs
Custom, Luxury & Forged OptionsCars, Trucks & SUVs
Timeless, Classic, "Engineered Art"
Custom, Luxury & Forged OptionsTrucks, SUVs
Our Go-To for Big, Lifted Trucks
From Mid-Level to Custom,
Luxury & Forged Options
Wide Range of Options For Many
EV Makes & Models
First to Market With Trendsetting,
Premium EV Wheels
From Premium to Custom,
Luxury & Forged Options
Tesla Focused
Lightweight Concave & Forged
Wheels, Racing Wheels, Carbon
Fiber Wheels
Custom, Luxury & Forged Options
Cars, Trucks & SUVs
Timeless & Classic Options of
the Highest Quality
"Engineered Art"
From Mid-Level to Custom,
Luxury & Forged Options
Tesla Focused
Precision Forged & Flow Formed Wheels w/ Color-Matched Carbon Fiber Aerodynamic Accessories
For simplicity, we've divided our favorite tires into two major categories:
When it comes to brands off-road tires, Nitto is hands-down our top pick. Whether driving primarily on the highway or on the trails, Nitto offers the best combination of ride quality, quietness, tread life and overall performance. Check out the links below to view Nitto's offerings for each category.
Our Top Pick
Quiet & Great Tread Life
Trail Grappler
Mud Tire
Ridge Grappler
Hybrid Tire
[Our #1 Seller]
Recon Grappler
All Terrin Tire
Economical Option
Good Quality & Low Cost
Country Hunter AT
All Terrain Tire
Country Hunter MTII
Hyrbid Tire
Country Hunter MTI
Mud Tire
Economical Option
Good Quality & Low Cost
Dual Sidewall
Mud Tire
Overlander
All Terrain Tire
Premium Option
Top Quality (But Pricey)
Open Country M/T
Mud Tire
Open Country R/T
Hybrid Tire
Open Country AT II
All Terrain Tire
Sports Cars
Summer Tire
Excellent Handling & Control,
Even at High Speeds
Sports Cars & SUVs
Summer & All-Season Options
Dedicated to Pure Performance,
Built w/ Best Auto Makers
Sports Cars, Crossovers & SUVs
All Season Tire
Exhilarating Sports Experience, Great Value
When browsing new wheels for your ride, the first obstacle is determining your vehicle's bolt pattern. Before you fall in love with a particular style of wheel, know your bolt pattern and check to make sure your prospective set of wheels is available in that pattern. If you don't already know your vehicle's bolt pattern and lug sizes, check out our guide here.
The terms "cast" and "forged" refer to the process in which a wheel is manufactured.
Cast wheels are made by melting aluminum alloy into a molten state, which is then poured into a cast where it hardens and solidifies. The final design is made by trimming and drilling the wheel, as needed. This process is generally considered to be relatively quick and inexpensive. One drawback is that this process results in small air pockets in the wheel, which impacts the structural integrity of the wheel.
Forged wheels are made by exposing a block of alloy (known as a "billet') to intense heat and pressure until it takes its shape. The wheel is then placed in a Computer Numerical Control (CNC) mill where it continues to be refined and lightened. The final result is a wheel that is both lighter and stronger (no air pockets) than cast wheels - and thus more expensive.
By the nature of the manufacturing process, all cast wheels are 1 piece. That is, the wheel, including the face (center and spokes) and outer barrel (rim), is composed a single piece of alloy. In 2 piece wheels, the face and barrel are separate pieces, joined by bolts or welding. The face may either be cast or forged while the barrel is typically forged.
1 piece wheels are typically mass produced, stocked at various distribution centered and readily available. For this reason, they are usually limited in finishes, sizes and offset.
2 piece wheels are usually custom made-to-order. They often feature much more intricate designs, more finish options and can be tailored to nearly any size and offset.2 piece wheels come with greater lead times and a higher price tag.
Offset and backspacing are 2 different methods used to indicate the location of the mounting surface of the wheel, which ultimately determines how far the wheel sticks out from the edge of the wheel well (if at all). Selecting the proper offset is critical not only to achieving your desired look, but also to ensuring proper wheel/tire fitment and preventing tire rubbing.
Offset is the distance (in millimeters) from the centerline of the wheel to the wheel's mounting pad. Offset is considered either negative, zero, or positive.
Available offsets will vary between models of wheels and manufacturers, but common offsets are for trucks and SUVs are: -44, -18, 0, +18, +30. For reference, 0 typically makes the wheel sit flush with the wheel well (dependent upon the width of the wheel as well). Most factory wheels are +30 or +35, meaning the wheel will site slightly inside of the wheel well.
Backspace is the distance (in inches) from inner edge of the wheel (the side facing the vehicle) to the mounting surface. Backspacing is much less commonly used today as most wheel manufacturers exclusively use offset. If you come across backspacing referenced by some suspension kit manufacturers, it is easiest to use an online conversion tool to convert backspacing to offset.
Hub centric wheels are designed such that the center bore of the wheel perfectly fits the vehicle's wheel hub, perfectly centering the wheel on the hub. Most factory wheels are hub centric because the auto manufacturer has the wheels specifically designed for a particular YMM.
Instead of relying upon a perfectly fitted center bore to center the wheel on the wheel hub, lug centric wheels instead rely upon the lug holes. Most aftermarket wheels are lug centric. These wheels will usually contain a larger center bore which can fit a variety of hubs (thus it is designed to fit a greater number of YMMs). Often times aftermarket wheels will come with hub centric ring adapters which can be used to fill in the gap between the vehicle's wheel hub and the wheel's larger center bore. If provided, these ring adapters should be used to help center the wheel on the hub properly.
While researching wheel options, you are likely to run across the term "beadlock" wheel. Standard wheels rely upon the pressure exerted by the inflated tire to create and maintain a seal between the tire bead and rim. But during activities such as rock crawling or desert racing, drivers may wish to reduce tire pressure for better traction and improved ride quality when traversing particularly rugged terrain. This is where a beadlock wheel comes into play. Beadlock wheels clamp he tire bead between the wheel lip and a beadlock ring that is then secured with bolts.
Note that many beadlock wheels are not DOT approved. Thus they may be suitable for off-roading but not for highway use. Check with your wheel manufacturer to determine if your beadlock wheels are street legal.
You may see the designation "LT" or "P" before (metric) or after (flotation) the size listed on your tire's sidewall. This indicates that the tire is designed for "Light Truck" or "Passenger" vehicle use.
Passenger tires are made for sedans, small SUVs and minivans. They are intended for lighter weight vehicles and on-highway use. These tires are specifically designed to provide a smooth ride and improved handing on both wet and dry paved roadways. Passenger tires are not intended to support the weight of heavy vehicles (such as 2500/3500 series trucks) or heavy hauling/towing.
LT tires are specifically designed for pick-up trucks and large SUVs/vans. They are constructed for not only highway use, but also off-road use. Enhanced side walls provide superior durability and reliability when traversing rough terrain - though this construction may make for a slightly less smooth ride on the highway. If you're reading this article, chances are you will need a Light Truck tire vice a Passenger tire. If you drive a large truck/SUV, intend to do any hauling/towing or plan to drive in an off-road environment, LT tires are designed for you.
There are 4 major variations of tires for your truck and SUV, running the spectrum of tires designed primarily for highway use to tires designed for extreme off-road use. Check out the graphic below to learn the trade-offs of each.
Our recommendation for most drivers is the hybrid terrain tire, such as the Nitto Ridge Grappler. Hybrid tires offer the best of both worlds, combining the durability and off-roading capabilities of mud tires with the on-highway comfort and quietness of all-terrain tires.
There are 2 formats of tire sizes you will likely encounter when browsing tires for your truck or SUV: metric and flotation.
Metric tire sizes are very common among tires intended for passenger vehicles (most cars, SUV and light duty pickups).
Flotation tires are most common among tires intended for off-roading use for pick-up trucks, SUVs, UTVs and even golf carts. The term "flotation" actually refers to the tires ability to "float" over rugged surfaces such as sand, dirt and mud.
Most metric tire sizes have a flotation tire size equivalent (or near equivalent).
If you intend to do any hauling or towing, you will need to pay attention to your tires load range. Flotation tires will indicate their load range on the sidewall of the tire. Take the flotation tire size 35x11.50R20LT E 124Q . The "E" indicates the load range and the "124" indicates the load index.
Load range refers to a tire's strength and ability to contain air pressure. When bias-ply tires were more common, tires used to be rated by their number of layers, or "ply rating." This system became antiquated by the development of more durable, radial tires. Ply-ratings now have a letter equivalent indicating their relative strength. Load range indicates a tire's maximum load pressure, measured by PSI, at a load range. A higher load range indicates that the tire can carry heavier loads while maintaining better traction and form. Many offroad tires come with an E or F load range. E is generally sufficient for most 1500/2500 series trucks and SUVs that may haul or tow moderate weights. However, if you own a DRW vehicle (dually) or intend to tow heavier loads, you'll need a tire with at least an F load range. See the chart below for flotation-specific load ranges.
Load index refers to the maximum weight a tire can safely carry. The index ranges from 0-150, though LT tires designed for most trucks and SUVs will have a load index somewhere in the range of 70 to 124. These index values correspond to an actual weight as seen in the load index reference chart below. Note that you may see tires with 2 load indexes listed. The first load index refers to the tire's load index in an SRW application. The second load index refers to a tire's load index in a DRW (dually) application. The DRW load index will generally be lower than the SRW load index. This is due to the fact that weight will not be perfectly evenly distributed when tires are paired together - and the tires may also need to support additional weight in the case of a blowout.
Use the chart below as a general guide for tire load ranges. However, before making a final tire selection, always consult the tire manufacturer's maximum load weight and pressure for the most accurate data.
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
35 PSI (240 kPa)
50 PSI (350 kPa)
65 PSI (450 kPa)
80 PSI (550 kPa)
95 PSI (650 kPa)
110 PSI (750 kPa)
125 PSI (850 kPa)
Selecting the right size wheels and tires for your vehicle can be a complex balancing act. You must ensure you not only achieve your desired look but also the correct fitment. This will require you to find the correct combination of tire diameter, tire width, wheel diameter, wheel width and wheel offset.
Luckily, most lift and leveling kits will tell you the maximum or recommended wheel and tire specifications. Unless you are looking to push the limits with extremely large tires or extremely negative offsets, this is the wheel and tire combination you should go with. Note that trimming of the plastic fenders or wheel well lining may still be required.
If you do want to push the limits, there are tools and resources at your disposal to help you make an informed decision.
Check out Custom Wheel Offset to see what combinations have (or have not) worked for other vehicle owners. Or, consult the experts at your local off-road/4x4 shop.
If you are experiencing issues with your tires hitting the inner fender (a.k.a. "rubbing"), need more clearance between your wheels and knuckles, or if you just prefer a more aggressive stance, you may opt to install wheel spacers.
Wheel spacers help achieve a more negative offset, pushing the wheels further outside of the wheel well -- typically about 1-2 inches. Shims are similar to wheel spacers but only provide about 1/4 inch of spacing.
Unfortunately, wheel spacers have received a bad reputation due to safety concerns brought to light by poor quality spacers. If you are using wheel spacers, ensure to use high quality, brand name spacers. Reputable brands such as Rough Country are safe as long as they are properly installed.
For Toyota Tacomas, 4Runners and Tundras, another option to accommodate larger tires is a body mount chop. This process will require cutting the body mounts and welding a new reinforcement plate to add extra clearance.
Once you've selected your set of wheels and tires, you will need to have them professionally mounted and balanced. Mounting simply refers to the process of securing the tire onto the wheel, which is usually accomplished with air pressure (except in the case of beadlock wheels). Once the tire is mounted, it must be balanced.
Wheels and tires are not perfect. Once mounted, the center of gravity for the wheel/tire unit is almost never dead center of the wheel. The higher the speed you are traveling, the more effects of this misaligned center of gravity will be noticed. The vehicle will begin to shake or vibrate, which will become more pronounced at as your speed increases. This is resolved by the process of balancing, which entails adding very small weights (usually 1/4 to 1 oz) to precise, computer-specified locations on the wheel to bring the center of gravity for the overall wheel/tire unit to the center of the wheel.
Once your wheels and tires are mounted and balanced, you're ready install them on your vehicle. Be sure use the right tools for the job and follow the proper techniques. See our Tire Maintenance guide for more information on this process.
Proper tire maintenance is critical for both safety and maximizing the life of your tires. For more information regarding properly torquing your lug nuts, tire rotation patterns and finding your ideal PSI (both on highway and off-roading), see our guide for Tire Maintenance.
Now that you've upgraded your tires, you may be wondering if this will affect the accuracy of your speedometer. Check out our article on speedometer calibrators here.
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